Babine did as they promised and got the truck in first thing this morning, and finished around 3:30. We drove back into town to pick up a few groceries at the Real Canadian Superstore, fueled up, and then headed about 40 miles south to another free BC Rec Site campground, Chubb Lake, which is beautiful and quiet. We saw one other camper on our way in. In the morning we will go for a walk, and then continue towards Vancouver, probably via Whistler. Took a hike at Chubb Lake this morning, then drove to Alexandria to take a hike to a dry waterfall and cool basalt formations. Continued south on 97 to 100 Mile House where they have a free community dump and fill station to fill with water, then drove to Valentine Lake Rec Site campground, only to find it packed with moose hunters. We drove another mile down the road and found a pull off more than big enough for our rig, where we’re parked by ourselves for the night…much quieter and better than a packed moose camp! Took a walk by Valentine Lake, then showered and did a load of laundry since we knew we could refill in 100 Mile House, which we did. We then drove south on 97 to the 99 junction towards Whistler, again amazed at the beauty of British Columbia. We stopped just west of Lillooet at another free BC campground, Seton Dam, a part of BC hydro, although this one is busier with tourists than any of the others where we have stayed. And no moose hunters! In the morning we plan to take one of several hikes from the campground before heading for Whistler. Took a walk along the canal full of dead salmon at the campground in Lillooet, then drove along the very beautiful Sea to Sky Highway 99 to Whistler. Tried to park in Whistler but there were too many people, too many cars, too many closed roads, and just too much confusion, so we drove south to this very quiet BC rec site free campground, Chek Canyon, used mostly by rock climbers, just a little north of Squamish. Tomorrow we’ll take a hike here and then head for Vancouver. Took a walk up the mountain at Chek Canyon, then drove back into civilization through Vancouver to Carlton & Lorraine’s house.
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September 19-25, 2023Although we had intended to get up and take a hike in either Hyder or Stewart, it was pouring rain that morning. So, we watched the eagles on the river next to the camper, and then took off and headed south. When we got to internet range at Kitwanga, we looked for some place to take a hike on All Trails, and found a bunch of hikes around “The Hazeltons.” I took a look at iOverlander and saw that there were a number of places to camp in the area, and that the area visitor center had a free dump/fill station for RVs. We headed to the visitor center, where we filled with water, had lunch in the parking lot, and got a lot of good information about where to hike and where to camp. We ended up at a free provincial park, Anderson Flats, which has no amenities, but which is astoundingly beautiful with snow capped mountains on one side and a confluence of rivers on the other. We took the dogs for a short walk in the park, and then took ourselves on a longer walk on the dirt country roads just outside of the park before settling in for the night. In the morning, we took the dogs for the same walk as the previous day at the Anderson Flats PP before we left, not knowing if they would be allowed on the other walks we planned for the day. They were lucky, because we did two more great hikes, and dogs were welcome on both. After stopping at the visitor center to refill our water since we had taken advantage of sufficient water to shower and do laundry the night before, we went to the Breakover Trail at the edge of New Hazelton, which was a ~2 mile loop along the river through the trees, which was beautiful since the foliage seemed to be near peak. After that, we drove to Ross Lake Provincial Park, about 5 miles outside of New Hazelton, to take another 2+ mile walk around the lake. That was a really pretty walk, with views of the mountains over the lake and the changing foliage. We didn’t get done walking until almost 4 o’clock, so we found a free municipal campground about two and a half hours towards Prince George in the town of Burns Lake. The campsites are right on the lake, downhill from a really nice community center with a skate park, huge playground, boat launch into the lake, dock with a slide into the lake, indoor community recreation center and curling rink…and all were being enthusiastically used at 7:00 on a Wednesday night when we pulled in, although we were joined by only one other camper that night. In the morning, we decided to do the dreaded change the composting toilet task, and then talked to some workers at the campground for quite a while, so didn’t get out for a hike until almost 11. But, the 6+ mile hike around a small lake in the Burns Lake Provincial Park was beautiful, and worth the time for us and the dogs. We then drove to Prince George where we shopped at Walmart and got oil for the truck for the oil change which scheduled for the next morning. Oil change day did not go as planned. The plan was to get the oil changed, and then head south. Instead, when they did the oil change, they noticed that we have an exhaust leak under the cab, which could be dangerous since toxic fumes we can’t smell are probably leaking into the cab. So, instead of driving out of Babine Truck & Equipment at 10:30 Friday morning, we spent until mid afternoon with them doing diagnostic work and figuring out what parts we need, when the parts could get there, and when they could do the work. Of course this was all happening on a Friday afternoon, so nothing could be done until Monday, but the final decision was that we don’t need any parts they can’t get, and they can start the work Monday morning at 7:30am, and think they can do it in a day. While they were getting estimates for the work we took the dogs out for a walk around the industrial park where Babine is located. We were delighted to find three people out walking their dogs on their lunch hour, because they take their dogs to work. While we weren’t too impressed with Prince George because it’s a lumber town and it smells, it can’t be all bad if so many people can bring their dogs to work. The service manager at Babine told us that we can park in front of Bay 4 on Sunday night so that the engine will be cold when they pull it in on Monday morning, and we’re glad we’ll be in a dog friendly neighborhood. When we left Babine, we went to Cottonwood Park, which had a few recommendations on iOverlander as a place to park for the night. We pulled into the very busy parking lot and decided to take the dogs for a walk while we figured out what we were going to do for the weekend. Although the walk along the river with the dogs was quite nice, we decided we didn’t want to stay in the city with the smell, the train noise, and all the traffic. We found one potential spot about 25 miles northwest of Prince George, but while Tom was driving towards that, I got on FreeRoam and found a free BC Recreation Sites & Trails Campground on Shesta Lake, southwest of Prince George. The last 3 miles or so to the campground are on a gravel forest service road, but it’s very well maintained and easy driving. We pulled into the campground and found a guy already there, who told us he was waiting for his brother and nephews to have a guys’ night around the bonfire before a moose hunting day tomorrow. They warned us that they might be a little loud around the campfire, but they wouldn’t be up all night since they were planning to head out hunting by 6am. We made sure we wouldn’t be crashing their party if we parked there, and they assured us that as long as their noise doesn’t bother us, we wouldn’t bother them. We figured we could use it as a good excuse to not worry about the volume of our movie, and their noise would be a good bear deterrent, which were told is needed. As it turned out, we didn’t even hear them, and over the course of the next couple of days we had a lot of nice chats with them. They set up their camp for a week, and we were actually a little disappointed that we couldn’t stay longer. But, after two long road walks to keep us out of the woods since we don’t have any blaze orange with us and everybody is out hunting on the provincial land, we said goodbye to Shesta Lake and headed back into Fort George to park in front of Babine so they have a cool engine to work on Monday morning. September 16-18, 2023 Photos at bottom We woke up to 34 degrees and frost in Watson Lake, so we hit the road and headed south on the Cassiar Highway. We’d been hearing that the Cassiar was closed due to fires, and had wondered if it was *really* closed or if they were just saying that to keep traffic off while they fought the fires. As we drove through the completely barren landscape where the fires had been, where there weren’t even burned trees standing because everything had been burned to the ground and incinerated so there was literally nothing left but scorched black earth, we realized that the road closure had been entirely legitimate. It would have been deadly to try to drive through there, and we felt sort of stupid about thinking it was to keep traffic down since even when it was opened, there wasn’t any traffic. In the 60 or so miles before we stopped for lunch and a hike at Boya Lake recreation area, we may have passed a dozen cars coming from the south. We had a nice hike to the beaver dam at Boya Lake, and then walked out one of the forest service roads. We didn’t see more than six or eight people, and with the cool fall temperatures it was a great hike. We then headed south to Jade City, which had been on all the “things to see on the Cassiar” lists, but which we weren’t certain would be worth the time. Jade City deserves to be on the lists, and for us, coming from Mesoamérica where jade was gold to the Maya, seeing huge boulders of jade just lying around was amazing. They also have a store where they have jade everything from little bitty pieces of jewelry to gigantic sculptures. We spent about equal time wandering through the store and outside among the jade boulders, wondering what both our archeologist friends in Belize, and the ancient Maya, would think to see tons of jade just sitting on the side of the road. We left Jade City and drove another 30 miles or so south to Sawmill Creek recreation area where there is a free campground right on the lake. The next day was basically just a travel day and didn’t end like we planned, but it was a really good day. We left the campground and headed south on the Cassiar, with plans to head to the Iskut River Hot Springs Provincial Park with stops for some short hikes on the way. We couldn’t find the hikes we had planned, so we kept driving south, and saw a porcupine and a moose. We pulled into the Kinaskan Lake Provincial Park and realized that the hikes we had looked at on All Trails were based in that park. We were a little handicapped because we didn’t have any internet after we left Watson Lake the previous morning, but I’d screen capped enough to figure out what we wanted to do. We took an unplanned hike near the campground along the very beautiful lakeshore, and then drove south and took the two hikes we’d looked at on All Trails. Both were out and backs, with one a portage trail to a small lake south of Kinaskan Lake, and the other a hike to an amazing double waterfall. We got back in the truck and headed for the turnoff to the Iskut River Hot Springs PP, only to find that it is a private road to a mine, with a locked gate. So, we abandoned our plan to head to the hot springs, and started looking for a place to park for the night, and we saw two black bears by the side of the road! We ended up at the Bob Quinn rest area which gets great reviews on iOverlander, with plans to head for Hyder the next morning. We left Bob Quinn the next morning and drove directly to Hyder, AK. Hyder is a town in Alaska accessible only by water or through Stewart, BC. On the way, we saw two black bears, but only got a photo of one. We pulled into Hyder and got tickets to go see bears at Fish Creek, but there were no bears to be seen. At the recommendation of the rangers, we got in the truck and took a very uphill drive to the Salmon Glacier. The Salmon Glacier was beautiful, and worth 20 miles of bad road. We drive back down the 20 miles of bad road, which seemed shorter and in better condition on the way down, and tried to see bears at Fish Creek for a second time, but still no luck. However, we did see a sow and one cub on the road back to Hyder, where we parked at the first pullout out of town and did our walk in the dark. It wasn’t until morning that we realized we were probably parked in one of the nicest camping spots we’ve had, even though it was on the side of the road. The road goes nowhere but to the wildlife observation point and the glacier, so no cars passed during the night. The pullout was right on the river, and in the morning I was watching bald eagles fish in the river while I made breakfast. It was truly spectacular. We had to laugh as we exited Hyder, because although we didn’t have to go through immigration/customs to get from Stewart, BC (CAN), into Hyder, AK (USA), we had to go through Canadian immigration/customs to get back into BC. Although the interrogation wasn’t as detailed as when we left Skagway to enter the Yukon, it was pretty thorough, and for the first time on this whole trip, with the exception of entering Mexico from Belize, we had to show documentation for the animals. We were asked if we were transporting any firearms, firewood, cannabis, or tobacco, which was funny because we’d somehow gotten into Canada from Alaska before, and we’re not quite sure how we would have found any of those things in Hyder since we didn’t see an open store, and didn’t actually see any people besides the park rangers and the town librarian. He asked where we had purchased our perishables and wine, and made a sort of “why did I ask?” face when Tom said, erm, Whitehorse, of course. He asked how long we would be in Canada, and the answer was a sort of a shrug since we have no idea how much ground we’ll cover day to day, but then told us that we had six months in Canada, and the rules were a little squishy as to whether that six months started today, after leaving Hyder, AK, or if they started back in July when we entered Canada in Alberta…which is on our record since he knew that we had had our pepper spray confiscated at that border crossing. Tom assured him that we intend to be out of Canada by Oct. 1, because we have been passing signs all over the place that say that snow tires and/or chains are required after Oct. 1, and we have neither. Sometimes international travel is complicated. We spent the rest of the day driving south on the remainder of the Cassiar Highway. It was neither as spectacular nor as exciting as the northern portion of the road, but the scenery was still worth staying awake to look out the truck windows. |
Meet the Moonracers
Tom and Marge are taking Moonracer Farm On The Road Again. Follow our journey to build an expedition vehicle and travel! Archives
January 2024
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