St. Paul is only a little over an hour from St. Croix Falls, so we pulled into the city in the middle of the morning. Our plan was to take a walk around the capitol, eat lunch, and then head to our friend Kris’s house about an hour outside Minneapolis. Because it was a pleasant day, we found a city park named Indian Mounds Park a couple of miles from the capitol and decided to park there and walk. We followed walking directions from our phones and had a nice walk on a bike trail, through a couple of small city parks, and up some back steps to the capitol itself. The St. Paul capitol has recently undergone major renovations, and they appear to have been very successful. The entire building is made of beautiful veined marble, and it glows and sparkles in the sun, with only the gold dome and the statue near the top outshining the building itself. It’s surrounded by lots of grassy park, and we saw lots of people out enjoying the beautiful spring day. By the time we walked to the capitol and walked around the area, we had covered almost four miles. We didn’t want to go back to the truck the same way we’d walked to the capitol, but that was the only route our phones were giving us. We looked at the map and saw that a river walk went very near the park, so we headed down to the river and walked along the Mississippi. After walking for a while, we thought we should be almost there, so we looked at the GPS map of where we were and where the truck was parked, and found that we were very close. But, the reason the GPS hadn’t recommended the route we’d taken was because to get to the truck, we had to cross a very busy highway, very busy multiple train tracks, and then climb a cliff. We had the option of continuing about 2 miles along the river to where we could cross the road and the train tracks after the cliff ended and then walking back along the top, or retracing our steps and finding our way back to our original route. We opted to retrace our steps and fairly quickly figured out where we were, but by the time we got back to the truck we’d covered over eight miles. We were also pretty hungry because lunchtime had come and gone, and the dogs were very thirsty because all the water fountains along the river walk had been turned off for some reason, but we all survived. We drove to see the Indian mounds that gives the park its name, and then headed for Delano. By the time we got to Delano, it was 5:00, so Kris was done working and met us in the driveway of her beautiful property. We parked between her garden and a barn, and while we were getting the camper set up she cut us a bunch of asparagus fresh from her garden. Asparagus is one of the things we miss in Belize, so we’ve been eating a lot of asparagus from the grocery stores since we’ve been in the US, but the stuff we’ve been buying just doesn’t compare to fresh from the garden. We found ourselves eating it raw, but I managed to save enough for a dinner. Kris called her friend Mark and asked him to bring some fish he’d caught and frozen for dinner, and we all sat down to enjoy a glass of wine while we waited for him to get there. We were amazed at how quickly we were comfortable; she is the sister of our friend Jon whose farm we stayed at before leaving for this trip, so we’d all heard a lot about each other through Jon, but we’d never met. But, it was like meeting old friends for the first time, and we had no trouble keeping the conversation going. After an amazing dinner of local fish and salad and vegetables from the garden, we talked until I could barely keep my eyes open. The next day, we made arrangements to go for dinner and a visit with Fred and Rosewitha, Kris and Jon’s parents. It should have taken us about an hour to get to their place, but we had to drive through a terrible thunderstorm where everyone just pulled off the road because the rain and wind made it so you couldn’t even see the front of the car. We were very glad Kris had loaned us her car and we weren’t in the camper, because it would have been much more difficult to get that off the road and we would have had to fight much harder with the wind. The storm passed within about fifteen minutes, and we found Fred and Rosewitha’s house in the middle of Minnesota farm country set on a beautiful lake. From the house, you have a 360 degree view of the farm, and besides enjoying wonderful conversation and delicious food, we watched all the wildlife around the house. They sent us home with a big box of canned goods from their garden, which we are saving until Alaska where we think we may have a little more trouble getting fresh produce.
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We left Little Potato River Falls Campground and headed towards the other side of Wisconsin to the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway, which is a park in two separate locations. We were originally only going to go to the unit which is actually on the St. Croix River, but as we were crossing the state we found ourselves in Trugo, near the Namekagon District. And, just past the visitor center, we found a trailhead for a wide open all purpose trail. The trail was gravel, and wide enough for two ATVs to pass going opposite directions, so it was perfect for being out of the thick woods where the mosquitoes were, and for keeping the dogs out of the leaves and grass and away from the ticks. We didn’t see much of the river besides crossing over it on a bridge, but it gave us a chance to get a nice long walk without any major discomfort. When we finished walking, we headed towards St. Croix Falls, where the main visitor center for the park is located. We didn’t find much to see or do because the park is focused on water activities, but we followed the riverside trail to see the dam, and discovered that the trail runs into an adjacent state park campground. We wandered around the campground and looked at the river from all angles, before heading back to the truck. The very nice ranger in the visitor center told us it would be okay to camp in the visitor center parking lot, but because we know that most national parks frown on boondocking outside of campgrounds, we went to a nearby Walmart and had a very quiet evening. In the morning, we crossed the river into Minnesota and headed for St. Paul, Minnesota’s capital. A fish hatchery is adjacent to the park. It is now the type of pools you’d expect, but it used to be a series of tanks that were filled by a creek running down the hill to the river.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is another National Park that runs along the lakeshore for an extended distance. This park is on Lake Superior, and coming from Tahquamenon State Park, we traveled from east to west. After lunch and computer work at the bar, we drove another hour or so to the small town of Grand Marias, just outside the northeast side of the park. The first thing we did was take a hike down a trail through the woods to the lakeshore. The trail followed a creek with beautiful waterfalls, and the creek ran into Lake Superior. We then drove to the site where there used to be a log slide, so when the shores of the lake were being logged, the loggers could get the logs to the top of a giant dune and put them in a wooden log slide to send them into the lake. The wooden log slide is long gone, but you can still see where it was on the very steep side of the dune. Visiting these sites took us most of the afternoon, and we had to find a place to stay. We had hoped to stay at one of the campgrounds in the park, but they’re all reservation only, and the reservations must be made on line, and reservations must be made at least a day in advance. So, although we saw many empty campsites, we couldn’t stay in the park. Fortunately for us, Kingston Lake State Campground was just outside the park boundaries, and only about five miles from the national park campground. We were glad we had purchased the Michigan Recreation Pass because it’s required at state campgrounds, on top of the $20 fee for the night. If we’d had to purchase a recreation pass at that point we would have passed, because although the small campground is very pretty, it has no services and wouldn’t be worth $31 for the night. We were a little peeved even with the $20 fee, and since we were the only ones in the campground that night, it seems like other travelers are deciding that the Michigan camping policies aren’t exactly user friendly. The clouds of mosquitoes didn’t make us feel any more amicable towards the state, but we know the park officials can’t control that. In the morning, we drove back up to the National Park and took a hike along the lakeshore to the lighthouse. After that, we continued east and drove to the Miners Castle area where we walked to another waterfall, then walked along the lakeshore between the Miners Castle rock formation and Miners Beach. The park is very beautiful, with pine forests running to the edge of the bluffs, and many small creeks running over waterfalls to empty into the lake. We decided it was too chilly to take a boat out into the lake to get a lakeside view of the Pictured Rocks, but there are many outcroppings as you walk along the bluffs so you can look back to the cliffs dropping into the lake. We made one more stop to see one more waterfall at Munising, the town at the southwest side of the park. We planned to hike to a few more waterfalls in the Keewenaw Peninsula, so we headed west. We’d had enough of mosquito plagued overpriced campgrounds, so we made the choice to stay at a Walmart near the peninsula. We usually stay at Walmart when there isn’t a better nearby option, but in this case we stayed there because although a number of state campgrounds were in the vicinity, we needed a break from the mosquitoes, which a paved parking lot provided. We also went into the Walmart and bought hats and mosquito netting for our heads, which came in very handy the next day when we hiked. In the morning, we drove to the trailhead for the O-Kun-De-Kun-Falls, and took a nice hike to see the multiple waterfalls along the trails. Unlike at the national park, the dogs could hike with us, and between not too many ticks on the dogs and making good use of our mosquito hats, it was a very pleasant hike. Since our anti-mosquito plan was working, we got brave and camped in the woods again that night, at a little Wisconsin Conservation Corps campground called Little Potato River Falls. We don’t know why Michigan can’t do what Wisconsin does and offer very nice and free campgrounds, especially since Little Potato River Falls was actually way nicer than Kingston Lake, and we were able to walk to multiple beautiful waterfalls along the river. The mosquitoes were still pretty thick, but the area was so beautiful it was worth it.
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Meet the Moonracers
Tom and Marge are taking Moonracer Farm On The Road Again. Follow our journey to build an expedition vehicle and travel! Archives
January 2024
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